One terrible night that started everything.
The night market at Asiatique was where we first tasted really good pad thai. A tuk-tuk driver called Som found us lost near Khao San Road and took us, via a very enthusiastic detour, to a restaurant he claimed was his cousin's. The pad thai cost เธฟ80. We ate two each.
The next morning we were up at 5:30am for the Grand Palace. The golden spires of Wat Phra Kaew caught the first light before the tour buses arrived, and for about 40 minutes we had the whole thing nearly to ourselves. Monks moved between the buildings in saffron. Incense hung in the air. None of us said anything. That's the Bangkok moment.
"Som the tuk-tuk driver charged us 600 baht for a thirty-minute journey that took ninety minutes. It was worth every single one."
We came back three months later with the first version of the Essential Travel PAC. James tested it on the Suvarnabhumi-to-Heathrow overnight flight. He slept six hours. He's never shut up about it since.



